If there is one garment men tend to neglect when they pick out their outfit, it’s trousers.
How many of you are guilty of buying cheap dress pants from mass retailers? After-all, it’s just pants (you’ll be covering most of it with a belt anyway)…right?
[Newsflash] Your dress pants should fit perfectly around your waist, without the need for a belt to hold them up.
Trousers are crucial to bringing balance to your entire look — with the right trousers, you could look like the best-dressed gent in the room.
Your guide to getting a good pair of dress pants starts here:
1. Getting the Right Fit
The cut of your dress pants is the first thing anyone would notice — traditional men may prefer a more generous cut, while millennials might prefer something slimmer. A tailor can make those adjustments according to your preferences whilst making sure they don’t reach the extremity of being too loose or too tight.
Should fall smoothly without any pulling material.
If it is too tight, you’ll be able to feel it and see it pulling; if there’s too much material, it will look saggy and unflattering.
Choose your trouser rise based on your body proportions.
High: elongates your legs
Mid: if you are pretty proportionate
Low: makes your upper body appear longer
The harsher the break, the more mature you look.
No Break: Modern
1/4 Break: Timeless
1/2 Break: Standard
Full Break: Vintage
2. Choosing Your Trouser Fabric
Wool & Wool Blends
The classic choice — pure wool and wool blends are the most common trouser fabrics.
When to wear: Work and formal events
Benefits: Durable and wrinkle resistant
The summer-friendly choice — cotton trousers give you a refined yet casual look. Cotton stretch fabrics also make great golf pants.
When to wear: Smart-casual environments
Benefits: Breathable & versatile
The sartorial summer choice — one of the most popular fabric choice for Singapore’s heat.
When to wear: Smart-casual events and outdoor weddings
Benefits: Breathable, lightweight, has a great natural texture
3. Dandy Details to Add On
Waistband & Fastenings
The most common type of fastening you’ll spot with mass produced pants is a simple button or hook & bar closure at the centre front. Sure, there’s nothing wrong with that; it provides a clean, American, silhouette that’s pretty much standard in the world of menswear today.
However, with tailored trousers, your choices would extend beyond these basic designs. Elevate your look with these visually striking, utilitarian waistbands designs the next time you tailor a pair of pants:
Belt Loops, Side Adjusters & Suspender Buttons
There’s more than one way to hold your trousers up. Belt loops are standard for work trousers, but you can also opt for side adjusters and suspender buttons for a touch of #sprezzatura.
The After-Dinner Split
A hallmark of attention to detail — the “after-dinner split” is a slit at the center back of the waistband that accommodates the expansion of your stomach if you eat a large meal, and also allows for more movement at the waist, especially when you sit.
To Pleat or Not to Pleat
When to choose pleats:
– You want more comfort and ease of movement.
– If you have some weight around your middle; pleats can help disguise this.
– If you have thicker thighs that are simply not accommodated by modern, slimmer cuts.
When to choose flat front:
– You want a clean silhouette.
– If you’re going for something timeless and versatile.
Should You Cuff Your Pants?
When to cuff your pants:
– You want that added weight so your pants will drape better.
– It’s a pair of smart-casual trousers.
– Adds a touch of sartorial detail
When to not cuff your pants:
– If you want to elongate your legs.
– If you’re tailoring tuxedo pants.
If you’ve made it to the end of this article, congratulations! You now know more about dress pants than 80% of the population (we made that statistic up). If you’re interested to learn more, head on down to our stores to check out what we can do for you! We’ll be more than happy to show you around.